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Atene Naturale 9a

I cannot remember how many times I have climbed in Massone. Surprisingly, there is always something new. In this case, the route is pretty old, it was developed 20 years ago by Rolando Larcher and it is called "Atene". It is a cool route between 8b+ and 8c (8c, I think, can fit better), but it had one problem - two artificial holds. In 2018, I tried to avoid these two artificial holds, found a good beta, and on my second go, I fell off in the upper headwall because of lack of attention. On the next try, I broke a tiny foothold in the crux - and even though it was tiny, it turned out to be absolutely crucial. Since then, I had been trying this route sporadically (4 days in total) whenever I happened to be in Arco and had a free afternoon, but never made it through the crux. This September, I arrived late afternoon (the same day I did "Sid Lives"), checked the moves, gave it a try and fell off like usual in the crux. I pulled back up and found a crucial right heel hook, that helped me to readjust the right-hand pinch. I did not have much time to rest before giving another try as the darkness was approaching. But I was sure there was a chance to do it with the new beta. Watch the next try in this episode.


Tips for Better Clipping / Sid Lives 8c+

The next episode is about a short route called Sid Lives 8c+ or 9a. It is very cool climbing on slopey holds and crimps, requiring weird body tension. The episode is also spiced up with tips on how to clip better, faster and more efficiently.


Hard Choice / Genezis 8b+ On-sight

Last year I went to Súľov in Slovakia and tried this crazy project featuring three hard moves on mono pockets in a row. My plan was to return and finish this unfinished business. Not every time it turns out the way you want it. This time, I was unsuccessful for a very surprising reason...

84 / Kneebar - The Downgrader / Beginning 9a

83 / Adam's Workday / Behind the Scenes with a Top Athlete

82 / Meet with Seb Bouin / La Moustache qui Fache 9a+

81 / Briancon 2020 / Lead Climbing World Cup

80 / Two Training Days in Innsbruck / Getting Ready for Lead World Cup

79 / Let's Train Outdoors / Bouldering Fun

78 / Climbing Grades / How I Grade Routes

77 / Sandstone / Extremely Scary Bolting

76 / Bolting a New Route / Potential 9c Project

75 / Back to Italy / Little Hidden Gems

74 / Conquer the Castle