Directa Rodillar 8c+/9a

Created by: Adam Ondra

Margalef is a huge climbing area, offering sectors both in the shade and in the sun. La Finestra, the sector where Perfecto Mundo is located, suffers more due to humid and rainy conditions as it is north-oriented and not very exposed to the wind. That is why we headed out to Raco de les Espadelles, which south-facing cliff is considerably exposed to the wind and dries up quite quickly after rain. It is the biggest sector that is really cool as it has both easy and extreme routes in relative proximity. I have already visited this sector a few times in the past and as in many other sectors in Margalef, I usually struggled on some of these routes.

One of the routes I have tried and haven’t done in the past is La Bongada 8c+/9a, tackling really spectacular cave in the middle. Unfortunately, this route was still pretty wet, so I turned my attention to the project more to the right, bolted by Dani Andrada. I had already tried this one too a few years ago and I thought its short and super powerful character would be a great compensation to rather pumpy and continuous climbing La Finestra. After a few tries, I managed to get it done and first ascent of Directa Rodillar 8c+/9a was born.

I wanted to continue my quest for short bouldery routes to work pure power, so I went to try Enemigo Publico nr. 1 8c+/9a - a route first ascended by Iker Pou. It is an absolutely brutal board-like route with nothing but monos and two-finger pockets. Well, I could not really imagine doing that crux move, which is really, really hard, and obviously, I still need to improve in this brutal pocket pulling. To finish the day, I wanted to send Pal Norte 8c+/9a - a route I had already tried one day many years ago (and found it impossibly hard and pumpy), but unfortunately, I got up to the upper headwall too pumped. Definitely one to come back for in order to get rid of one more “nightmare” route. There are still a few left in Margalef for me.

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