Mastering Rock Climbing: Strategies for Success

Created by: Adam Ondra

If you want to improve in rock climbing, choosing the right strategy is essential! The question is whether to climb many routes on-sight (OS) or focus on a specific route


In my opinion, up to difficulty 7a, you should primarily climb a large volume of routes to get the technique and proper climbing movement into your body. Even though you are climbing a large volume, the routes should always be challenging. However, if you want to advance both in strength and technique, you can’t avoid projecting routes. Start by climbing harder things first, but within a few attempts, let's say over two to three days. This way of climbing will help you improve in different aspects than before and at the same time, it will give you more insight into your weaknesses and what you need to focus on during training.

Ultimately, if you want to surpass your maximum, you might spend two seasons on your dream route. But always ask yourself: Is it the right time already? Or should I train more and try it next time?

It always depends on your personality, whether you enjoy making progress in small steps and handling long-term failure or prefer climbing many routes quickly. The most important thing is that you enjoy climbing!

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