Kneebar or Thighbar: That's the Question

Created by: Adam Ondra
2024/03/25

There are two types of kneebars - the resting kneebar and the kneebar that will help you in your next move. When you are resting in the kneebar, you often don't have your opposite foot on the foothold at all. You just use it to counterbalance your main foot. No one can stay on one foot very long, so it's a good idea to change them gradually. On a good kneebar, by switching legs, you can last a few minutes. If you use the kneebar for the next move, you put the free leg on the foothold so that you can get to the next hold. 

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Kneebars need to be practised like any other climbing skill. Any skill that advances your climbing further and doesn't just expand on the basics (small hold strength, shoulder strength, endurance) is very valuable because you can improve it fairly quickly.

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