✓ El Gran Bellanco 8c+/ 9a onsight
✓ Parada De Los Mostruos 9a
✓ El Maquinista 9a+/9b
Very happy to onsight the route El Gran Bellanco 8c+/ 9a on Wednesday, which I have had in my mind for quite some time! The execution was perfect, and I didn't make any mistakes.
Parada De Los Mostruos 9a
Saturday was a great time for Montanejos and the cave La Cueva Negra (Spain). There was another 9a La Parada De Los Mostruos that I wanted to try onsight. The attempt was great; I made it really fresh up to the crux, where I was hesitating a little bit. Just before I set off again, the edge of the hold, where I had a kneebar snapped, resulting in my body falling down even though I could still hold on to my right arm. I did not fall off, but my heel got tangled in the rope, which helped me a little bit. I decided that It was not ethical and stopped my attempt. I tried the moves on the crux, lowered down and sent it the next go. Partly redpointing, partly flashing.
I was a little disappointed, especially since I really did not get a chance to fight on my on m onsight try, but I think one must stick to the ethical standards. I was really impressed by the cave and especially the new projects that Dani Andrada and Jonatan Flor have been putting up during the last weeks. Definitely the place to come back for.
In the afternoon, I had the honor of climbing a new multi-pitch route (3 pitches up to 8b+) prepared by Hippie (Destino Climbing - Actitude) and the local climbing community.
El Maquinista 9a+/9b
On Sunday, we were supposed to go on a different adventure, but we were forced to stay in Spain for a few more days as we found out that our van had a couple of broken glasses and some of the gear missing. It was a good excuse to come back to Pilas Alcalinas sector and try a long-standing project bolted by Pedro Pons 20 years ago. I tried it once on Wednesday, and it felt almost impossible but totally amazing. I found some better beta, learned the moves, and after two more days of work, I made the first ascent of El Maquinista 9a+/9b.
Thank you - the entire climbing community in Montanejos and Valencia! You made the trip absolutely unforgettable for our entire AO crew!
Stay tuned for the upcoming video on my YouTube channel.
Pics by Petr Chodura and Honza Verner.