9a Project Climbed After 27 Years
Beckov (Slovakia) was a “fashionable” crag in the late ’80s and early ’90s. You can see this gigantic 50meter high piece of rock with a well-preserved castle on the top.
In 1994, Tomáš Pilka, nicknamed Svišť (means marmot), bolted the whole line of this overhanging feature, starting from the obvious ledge 20meters above the ground. He gave it a provisional name Dlouhá trasa (Long way). Last year in June, I checked out the moves in the project. I was blown away by the beauty but could not send it anymore. I returned here after 17 months. In the meantime, Mišo Makušiniec was putting some serious effort into the project. Thanks to Mišo, the project was cleaned, chalked and ready.
First Ascent Absolutorium 9a
Conditions were perfect, cold and dry and just a little windy, which you need here. A few moves above the last rest a total flash pump appeared. I launched onto the final sloper with the last-ditch effort, where you normally clip the anchor. I decided just to continue, trying to mantle onto the final ledge, which I did with the last reserves of energy and stood up into the sun, right below the wall of the castle. It was magical.
The route is now called Absolutorium, and it is definitely one of the nicest 9a’s in former Czechoslovakia (Czechia and Slovakia have been separated since 1993). Incredible to vision to bolt this thing 27 years ago.
Watch the full movie on my YouTube channel