Crimp Grips Tutorial: Crimp Like a Pro Climber ⚡

Created by: Adam Ondra
2024/01/04

In today's Tips & Tricks episode, we are going to look at different types of crimp grips. There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them.

The most common grip is the open crimp, which you should use most often when climbing. By using your pinky, you use most of the muscles in your forearm and back. The full lock bends your DIP joint and therefore allows you to get closer to the wall, and you can pull harder for the hold and reach higher than with any other grip. The open three-finger grip uses the least amount of muscle and is good for long endurance routes when you are least tired. It's also an important grip for holding the tips of certain pockets.

It's really important to learn how to use all three types of grips. There are situations where it is essential to know every single one of them. So practice them in a targeted way. So watch the new video for all CLIMBING FANATICS in the new membership section on my YouTube channel, and be a better climber with my advice!

See you there!

Pics in the gallery by Pavel Klement and Petr Chodura.

You might be interested in

Heel Hooks: Your Third Hand in Climbing
Full article
I Thought It Was Impossible to Climb Inga 8c+/9a
Full article
Decide and Climb: Mastering Your Onsight
Full article

Show all